Oasis Zest Dress Copy Pt 1

I found a large floral jersey at JoAnn's, it's not what I wanted as in a border print in woven but it is pretty and will  look just lovely.

Also because it's a knit I can stick with the size 16 and not worry so much about excess fabric. I do however still need to measure the pattern in the hip area to make sure I have the correct amount of ease for a knit. When I made the first dress I had to pinch a wedge from the front yoke just a tad to fit which made it a bit more curvy than it was.

The drawing is in a pink color but I will make the yoke in black to draw the eye up because in this dress I am not going to add a draw string like in my first N6778. The Oasis dress has a deeper neckline and short hem line. I am not to crazy about both together, you know it's always good to show off one or the other but if you show off to much leg and cleavage - well lets just say it's not my style! I am going to sew up the shorter hem line and keep the neckline up a little.

I am going back to the sewing room and get started drafting today. I'll post more as I go.

toodles lovelies!!

The Versatile Denim Skirt Part 3

It's all finished. The Burda WOF 03/2002 #108.

The basic denim skirt with front fly zipper, scoop pockets, an top stitching details. A back yoke, patch pockets, and kick pleat. Very easy to sew, with the exception of the fly front. Not a beginner pattern, but not advanced at all (I used Debbie Cook's toot on fly front zippers). Thanks again Debbie!!

All the seams were sewn using cotton covered poly thread in navy with a denim needle and the seam allowances were finished on the serger with a three thread flatlock stitch. Sewing denim can be a challenge, and it was for me this time as I used YLI Jeans stitch thread and a topstitching needle for all the top stitching. Well, a top stitching needle will not go through more than 3 layers of denim at one time. It was a sight to see me trying to sew the top stitching, and if you were in ear shot - well not very lady like noises were coming from the sewing room. YLI Jean Stitch thread is much thicker thread than say Coats and Clarks top stitching thread and it would not fit through the jeans needles so I had to use a top stitching needle for the YLI Jeans thread. I not a big fan of Coats and Clarks threads - but next time I will be using thier top stitching thread for denim!

Here's a close up on the design I digitized for the back pocket. It's really a basic continuous quilting design. This was stitched with the YLI Jeans stitch thread also but only through one thickness of denim. I embroidered on the denim and then cut out the pocket and sewed it onto the skirt back.

Now to have some quiet fun and a margarita.......................

The Versatile Denim Skirt Part 2

I searched for a jean style skirt pattern in my pattern stash and found a skirt pattern from Burda WOF 3/2002.

From the cover you can see my issue is in Dutch, I purchased this while living in the Netherlands. Dutch is a hard language to learn, at least for me. I learned just enough to get by, but they also speak English there to so that helped a lot. This pattern is the sewing course for this issue and it shows step by step line drawings of how to assemble the skirt - a plus!

Pattern #108 is a cute jeans style skirt with back patch pockets, front fly zipper and scoop front pockets. They added a kick pleat to the front.

From the line drawing you can see the back yoke, waist band and belt carriers. I moved the kick pleat to back for my skirt but pretty much kept the design the same.

So far I have the back yoke sewed on and topstitched, two back pieces together also topstitched and the pockets on.

I have the front fly zipper in and the front pockets complete. Next I have to sew the front to the back and add the waist band and hem it.

The Versatile Denim Skirt

Most women admit jeans are their favorite items of clothing! So, when it comes to skirts - a denim fabric can be quite helpful and versatile. The denim skirt is one of those pieces that every woman should have in her wardrobe. Its versatility knows no bounds, especially if you avoid trendy colors, and stick with a classic, pencil-style skirt. A dark washed denim skirt can be paired with heels, a button down, a nice jacket and scarf for a business casual look. The same skirt can then be worn with a silk blouse and kitten heels to dinner or other semi-casual events. For a laid back weekend look pair it with a t-shirt and flat gladiator sandals, or a cute polo and ballet flats. Just remember, unless you’re going for the grunge look denim should never be torn or frayed.

Hotpattern's Metropolitan Superfly Skirt is a modern denim/jean skirt pattern. Slight A-line with narrow darts in the front and back and a front fly. Optional belt carriers. With this pattern you could play with embroidery on the back pockets.

McCall's timeless classic pencil skirt is a great beginner pattern, with darts and a back zipper. So many lengths to choose you can't go wrong and once you get this one tailored to fit you will sew it over and over again.

Butterick's pencil skirt has great seam lines on view 'A' and view 'C' has cute ruffles on each side. View 'A' is good pattern to show off top stitching and vertical lines are always very slimming!! For view 'C' use a light weight denim the ruffles will not hang well in a heavy fabric. The ruffles are just enough flirtyness, keep the top stitching thread in same shade as the fabric.

Another skirt where top stitching makes all the difference. The back vent on this McCall's skirt has unusual detailing - worthy of a second glance.


Now that high waisted skirts are in style, this Vogue with its button details is in the fall fashion forecast. But stay away from views 'A' and 'C' as the gathered sides might not be flattering in a denim fabric with the exception - if you have very narrow hips then try it in a light weight denim.

Stay with good quality denim, in a deep rich color - no faded pale blue or pastels. Use strong colors in top stitching thread either in traditional jeans top stitching deep gold, crisp white, or same shade to blend in. Pay attention to how the fabric drapes and the style of skirt you want to sew. Keep it simple don't over do it, pick one detail to stand out and you will end up with a skirt that will be worn again and again.

Burda 7656 Capris

The first two pairs of capris made using Burda 7656. Very good pattern well drafted and the instructions are great. The denim pair is my test done in a light weight 100% cotton denim and the second pair in a cotton spandex woven. No alterations at all on the denim but changes the pockets and waist on the second pair. The waist is not to low - I guess you could say they are just a little below the natural waist.

In this photo it's hard to tell but I did alter the pockets on the second pair. I used a pocket off one of my RTW jeans and drafted a smaller pocket. Next pair I will make in a dark wash denim and do some fancy top stitching on the pockets like on many high end jeans pockets. On the second pair (green capris) I also made the waist band longer as to fit my tummy area.

I used Debbie's tutorial on Fly Front Jeans, her tutorial is my favorite!! She has all the info and step by step pictures - THANKS Debbie!!

Easily Distracted

I am so easily distracted from one project to another, and usually a new one at that. I have the Burda sundress traced out but got totally distracted by the Burda 7656 capri pattern. Burda's description:
These chic trousers/pants have a shaped waistband and squared pockets. Version A comes in 7/8-length with a broad, buttoned hem. Version B is plain, reaching just below the knee like classic capris. Both versions will be well teamed with sandals or ballerina shoes this summer. Recommended fabric: Gabardine, poplin, flannel, also stretch fabrics.

I like view 'B', I have traced a size 46 and sewn up a test in muslin. It fit a little snug in the waist and the waist is low cut - for me a short waisted and short in the rise gal with a bit of a bum this fits me well, the front pockets are placed great with no gaping, but the back pockets are large and placed to low for my bum - an easy fix, and the length is a little short - also very easy fix. So next is a wearable muslin made with a lightweight denim in my stash.

Burda 5/2009 131 and 132 - Part 1

The May issue of Burda World of Fashion has loads of pretty summer dresses. One that caught my eye, is 131 and 132 which are really the same pattern - just one is knee length and the other is a maxi dress, made longer by adding a tier to the skirt . The V-neck will help draw the eye up and the empire waist camouflages a thick waist and large hips (all of which I have).
It's a pity they are not using a true plus size model for the photos. In the photo for 131 you can't tell anything about the dress other than the cool print fabric used. The photo of 132 shows the empire waist and a little of the V-neck. I looove the fabric used for 132. If you go to the burda website they have these pictures for a limited time here: 131 and 132

Burda's descriptions

131 - As hot as a summer night! The African-style ethnic print attracts attention as do the adjustable empire line and imitation leather straps on the shoulders.

132 - This slightly flaring full-length dress achieves maximum effect. The airy printed crêpe chiffon swirls around your figure while the adjustable empire seam accentuates a deep neckline.

The straps are sewn on the top after it has been constructed, and the dress is fully lined which you could skip lining the skirt if you wanted. With the side zipper and drawstring empire waist it looks oh so comfy! 131 is made with leather or faux leather straps, and the straps are wide enough to hide the bra straps. (yes I am weird, I absolutely hate to see a bra peeking though or any sign of undergarments, call me old fashioned) I have traced the pattern for 131, and need to do up a test, but I am still looking for some fabric (going fabric shopping on payday) to use for the finished dress. Living in Florida I see the need for a few of these dresses for hot summer days.

When looking at the line drawings they look kinda 'blah', but with the right fabric choice these could be 'WOW' dresses for summer and throw on a cardigan and boots you could get into fall, and if your adventurous wear a turtle neck under with a blazer in the winter.

Butterick 4686

Pattern Description:

MISSES’ SKIRTS: Below mid-knee skirts A, B have pleats, waist facing and left side zipper closure. A: made with a border print. B: ribbon ties. C, D, E: self faced yoke, flared below mid-knee skirt and back zipper closure. C: decorative buttons on front yoke. E: contrast yoke with purchased trim inserted between yoke and skirt.

Pattern Sizing:

AA(6-8-10-12), EE(14-16-18-20), I sewed a 20.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Oh, yes!! I was inspired by EveS's review

Were the instructions easy to follow?

yes, although I am soooo bad at reading them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

The timeless-ness of a pleated skirt. They have always been in fashion, maybe not the highlight of fashion but always there depending on the fabrics used.

Fabric Used:A rayon silky from jo-anns.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

none in the first skirt, but for the second skirt in denim I removed some of the pleats. denim skirt . For more on the changes see my blog

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

yes!! this spring I plan on sewing one inspired by edupraz's lovely eyelet skirt you just gotta love it in an eyelet for spring!!

Conclusion:

Lovely lady like pleated skirt.

Pretty Pleasing Pleats

Oooooooohhh, pleats are everywhere this season! Pleats on skirts, blouses, pants, dresses, shoes and even on handbags too. All you have to do is search 'Pleated' at Neiman Marcus or Saks and up pop lots of lovely things.

So next up is a inverted box pleated skirt in dark denim or black. The list of patterns I like so far are:

Burda 8034

view A has a wide waistband, 5 front pleats and 5 back pleats with a side zipper

Hotpatterns 1017

Has a small waist band, 4 front pleats and 4 back pleats top stitched down to hip area, deep hem and a side zipper

Butterick 5285

View 'C' and 'D' have a small waist band 6 pleats in front and 6 pleats in back that are stitched to hip area with a back zipper

Butterick 4686

View 'A' and 'B' have 7 pleats in front and 7 pleats in back, no waist band (pleats start at top) that are stitched to the hip area, and side zipper

I am leaning towards Butterick 4686, mainly because I already have this pattern in my stash and have sewn up a test, I also have Burda 8034 and love the waistband ............but I am still looking closely at the others.

For inspiration I found this cute skirt at Newport News

Should I do dark denim or a black twill?

McCall's 3830

Pattern Description:
Skirt in five lengths have front and back darts, back zipper, faced waist and optional carriers; skirt A, B and C have back vent.

Pattern Sizing:
6 thru 22

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Very much so. The first skirt in purple was exactly as shown. I altered the pattern for the black and gray skirt to my inspiration skirt by Antonio Melani.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very easy and strait forward. The instruction are great for beginers.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I know this pattern has been review quite a few times but I thought one more couldn't hurt.
Everyone needs a pencil skirt in thier closet and this one is easy and quick to sew up. I like the easy and fast results, you can have a skirt in a few hours from start to finish. This simple pattern is open for great options for altering once you get the fit just right. Pencil skirts are flattering on all body types, as long as the fit is good and length is appropriate.

Fabric Used:
Fabrics recommended: Cotton and Cotton Blends • Linen Blends • Wool Crepe • Gabardine • Lightweight Woolens • Wool Blends • Synthetic Suedes and Leathers.
The purple skirt is cotton twill with flowers embroidered on it from JoAnns. The Black and gray skirt is a black and gray heathered poly blend from my stash I think I purchased years ago in Italy.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
For the purple skirt I cut a 20, but had to alter a little in the waist (due to the fact I don't have one) by letting out the darts. I tappered in just below the hip, to give it some shape. I am a plus girl with ample bum, hip, and thighs but have the skinnyest calves. If I had not taken it in below the hip it would have looked very odd.

The black and gray skirt all started when walking in the mall one day I spotted a skirt by Antonio Melani at Dillards and had to make one. I am in no way as thin as the lovely model but just loved the way the band accents are in black. At closer look the skirt has two bands, one at the waist and the other at the knee. I measured from the seam allowance at the waist down 3 inches to create the top band added registration marks and measured from the hem allowance up 2.5 inches for the bottom band, drew lines on the pattern pieces then cut these lines, added seam allowances. For the waist band I folded out the darts and created a contuored waist band. This made 6 pattern pieces from the original 2. Three for the front and three for the back. I used the new waist band pattern pieces for the facing and lined the skirt with black ambiance lining. (also if you notice - YES I got my new boots 'Bullock' by Born and LOVE THEM!!!!)

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I will. This is a staple in my wardrobe and a pattern that will be used for years. The next one will be the below the knee length and in denim for casual Fridays at the office and maybe a bright teal and black plaid I have in my stash.

Conclusion:
Fasy and fast! Pencil skirts will never go out of fashion.

I know I look goofy, and I need to smile. Really odd, when taking these photos I could swear I was smiling, but maybe the running back and forth to do timed photos I missed the smile. Believe me I am very happy with the way these skirts turned out ;)

5 Tee-Shirts down and how many to go??

I have been on a quest to get a tee-shirt pattern to fit me. My measurements are very wonkie, as I am different sizes all over. I did the dumb thing and went through 4 different patterns to see if I could alter them to fit me. So on Saturday I began this journey........

I tried New Look 6813, fitted a raglan sleeve. After doing a FBA for raglan, I used some bright pink cotton knit and it still fit tight in the bust area even with the FBA and very wide in the neck. Not a pretty look!! I threw it to the way-side, questioning myself as to why did I choose a raglan sleeve to begin with. This pattern will have to wait for tweaking - I need a true basic tee.

Next up was LaFred's Tia Tee, cute and sassy top. I did not do a FBA on this top as it had a dart drafted into the pattern. I sewed it up to my measurements but without the vertical darts on front and back waist. It was good except the bust darts are way below where they should be on me. (the dart could be moved, but...) The shoulders are drop shoulders, I have narrow shoulders and a large bust which this look ends up very sloppy on. I placed this pattern on the pile to tweak late on.

Then to try and cheer myself up I pulled out Simplicity 4076 wrap top (yes, I know its not a basic tee). Did a FBA for wrap tops on the top using my upper bust measurement. I came out good but I must have messed up when doing the extra bit of the FBA for wrap tops because it was a tad big and one of the two front pieces is bigger and it sits funny.

"Ok, lets try a Burda now" I say with a smile, Burda 8244. I border on the plus size so I thought why not. I measured (Burda's are drafted for a C cup, I think that's what I have been told) and used the full bust measurement and used a size 22 (get a clue here Kira!! I measure a 16 in the upper bust). It sewed up beautiful, has a bust dart and it's a basic tee. I tried it on and it was way to big! I took up a whopping 1" fold (2" total removed from front and 2" from back). The arm scye was way too big and left a lot of fabric between the bust and underarm. What went wrong? I have not a clue - duh the size was to big! All fabric removed and the neck is out of whack, yes I could redraft it, but I am delirious at this point.

I took a break, had some tea and a thought came to me: I love the back of Simplicity 4076, it fit great from the back with the exception of adding a swayback adjustment. The wrap top fit somewhat good in the front but the addition of the FBA made it baggie/loose and off keel to match by my mistake, on the plus the arm scye was good on me. What if I used the front of Burda for the neck and the arm scye from the Simplicity and morf it into the front of a basic tee??

Using the very last of my pattern ease I did a ruff draft from the Burda and Simplicity by matching center fronts of the unaltered Burda front over the unaltered Simplicity wrap front (the side that is not gathered). I redrew the arm scye, shoulder and side seams of the Simplicity but leaving the Burda neck alone and no bust dart. Sewed this in some more of the Pepto explosion fabric and it came out "OK" ! Now we are getting somewhere. Just need to do a swayback adjustment in the back and the fit check fit without the bust dart.

Somehow in all of this I am learning something, what it is yet I don't know. But at least I have a beginings of the basic tee, and lots of wierd shaped pepto colored rags.

(sorry, no photos of this adventure as of yet, and there very well might not be as most of then are to bad to wear out of the house, but more to come on the franken-tee)

The Jenny Bag

A great little purse with a unique shape, tutorial from Lola... again (Jana Nielson) with a down loadable PDF pattern.


The purse is small, but has a cute shape. I enlarged the pattern to make it a slight bit larger (more below). One outside pocket and roomie inside even for its size. My purse measures about 15" wide x 7" tall x 4" deep, with a strap drop of 11" (from the top of the handles to the top of the purse when worn on the shoulder, or how do you measure a strap drop?).

It has a unusual shape that looks cute and carefree, but polished at the same time.

The tutorial is wonderful! Pictures explain each step in detail. Even the tricky part on the bottom of the bag was made easy by her tutorial.

I love the shape and size. Its not a big bag, but holds everything I need for the day at work. It has a wider bottom than the opening, so the bag has an illusion that is would not hold much. I have a small note pad and pen (for sewing ideas on the go), compact/makeup, wallet, cell phone, tissues, pack of gum and chapstick in my purse and could fit a bit more. I love how she came up with the pattern draft to create the unique shape!! I have no dislikes at all.

I used Amy Butler's Belle fabrics love the wild colors and neat prints, fusible fleece in the body of the bag, heavy fusible interfacing in the handles, and magnetic snaps (one in the pocket and one in the bag opening).

When printing out the pattern it looked a bit small for me so I thought why not make it bigger. I work in an office where we have a copier (thanks to my boss) I was able to enlarge the pattern. I enlarged it by 29% (129% size ratio on the copier), I used 29% only because that was one of the default settings. I Changed the size of the outsize pocket just a bit bigger and did not stitch in the center of the pocket, wanted this to be my cell phone pocket.

I will sew this again. I have some black and white fabric (similar to this) that I will over dye with purple to make a fall purse. I recommend this pattern because of the great tutorial with pictures.
Cute style and the best part it's FREE!!

Wrap Skirt - Finished

Ok..... I finally finished the wrap skirt. My pattern review @ Patternreview.com

Pattern Description:

Wrap Skirt - I used Connimom's Tutorial


Pattern Sizing:
no real sizing, you cut to fit

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Pardon the bad photo, I am learning how to take photos by myself. I loved the way it looks, so I guess 'Yes' - but there is no pattern envelope. I wanted something modern and clean, but with ideas like Sandy Starkman's designs I could not resist.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Oh, Yes!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Easy and quick.

Fabric Used:
A rayon silky from Joann's

Alterations or any design changes you made:
none, this was my muslin, or test skirt.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I will and yes I will recommend.

Conclusion:
Fast easy and fun. If you use your imagination you can create a beautiful skirt (not at all old fashioned and little house on the prairie) .

Wrap skirt

I have picked out this fabric for my test skirtIt's a silky from JoAnn's , I got all that was left on the bolt 2 1/2 yards. It was just barely enough.

I used Connimom's toot . As soon As I get the hooks sewn on I will post pictures and a review on Patternreview.

But for today I am going to Christmas in July at Ruthies Notions. Lots of sewing and embroidery fun!!!

A Wrappin' Good Time.................

I was surfing at work (on my lunch hour) and found this great 'toot' on making a wrap skirt. More on the wrap skirt

Craftzine's simply swirly skirt toot ultra cute.

Connimom's long wrap skirt

Some inspiration skirts:

Celine pleated wrap skirt

Sandy Starkman's pretty in black and white

Sandy Starkman's beauty!!!! (this one is gonna be my insporation skirt!!) LOVE the waist band .

Sundance Wrap skirt

And that's got me thinkin'................. that would be a quick and easy addition to my wardrobe. Soooo I just might be stopping by JoAnn's on my way home to get some wrap skirt fabric.