The Versatile Denim Skirt Part 3

It's all finished. The Burda WOF 03/2002 #108.

The basic denim skirt with front fly zipper, scoop pockets, an top stitching details. A back yoke, patch pockets, and kick pleat. Very easy to sew, with the exception of the fly front. Not a beginner pattern, but not advanced at all (I used Debbie Cook's toot on fly front zippers). Thanks again Debbie!!

All the seams were sewn using cotton covered poly thread in navy with a denim needle and the seam allowances were finished on the serger with a three thread flatlock stitch. Sewing denim can be a challenge, and it was for me this time as I used YLI Jeans stitch thread and a topstitching needle for all the top stitching. Well, a top stitching needle will not go through more than 3 layers of denim at one time. It was a sight to see me trying to sew the top stitching, and if you were in ear shot - well not very lady like noises were coming from the sewing room. YLI Jean Stitch thread is much thicker thread than say Coats and Clarks top stitching thread and it would not fit through the jeans needles so I had to use a top stitching needle for the YLI Jeans thread. I not a big fan of Coats and Clarks threads - but next time I will be using thier top stitching thread for denim!

Here's a close up on the design I digitized for the back pocket. It's really a basic continuous quilting design. This was stitched with the YLI Jeans stitch thread also but only through one thickness of denim. I embroidered on the denim and then cut out the pocket and sewed it onto the skirt back.

Now to have some quiet fun and a margarita.......................

The Versatile Denim Skirt Part 2

I searched for a jean style skirt pattern in my pattern stash and found a skirt pattern from Burda WOF 3/2002.

From the cover you can see my issue is in Dutch, I purchased this while living in the Netherlands. Dutch is a hard language to learn, at least for me. I learned just enough to get by, but they also speak English there to so that helped a lot. This pattern is the sewing course for this issue and it shows step by step line drawings of how to assemble the skirt - a plus!

Pattern #108 is a cute jeans style skirt with back patch pockets, front fly zipper and scoop front pockets. They added a kick pleat to the front.

From the line drawing you can see the back yoke, waist band and belt carriers. I moved the kick pleat to back for my skirt but pretty much kept the design the same.

So far I have the back yoke sewed on and topstitched, two back pieces together also topstitched and the pockets on.

I have the front fly zipper in and the front pockets complete. Next I have to sew the front to the back and add the waist band and hem it.

The Versatile Denim Skirt

Most women admit jeans are their favorite items of clothing! So, when it comes to skirts - a denim fabric can be quite helpful and versatile. The denim skirt is one of those pieces that every woman should have in her wardrobe. Its versatility knows no bounds, especially if you avoid trendy colors, and stick with a classic, pencil-style skirt. A dark washed denim skirt can be paired with heels, a button down, a nice jacket and scarf for a business casual look. The same skirt can then be worn with a silk blouse and kitten heels to dinner or other semi-casual events. For a laid back weekend look pair it with a t-shirt and flat gladiator sandals, or a cute polo and ballet flats. Just remember, unless you’re going for the grunge look denim should never be torn or frayed.

Hotpattern's Metropolitan Superfly Skirt is a modern denim/jean skirt pattern. Slight A-line with narrow darts in the front and back and a front fly. Optional belt carriers. With this pattern you could play with embroidery on the back pockets.

McCall's timeless classic pencil skirt is a great beginner pattern, with darts and a back zipper. So many lengths to choose you can't go wrong and once you get this one tailored to fit you will sew it over and over again.

Butterick's pencil skirt has great seam lines on view 'A' and view 'C' has cute ruffles on each side. View 'A' is good pattern to show off top stitching and vertical lines are always very slimming!! For view 'C' use a light weight denim the ruffles will not hang well in a heavy fabric. The ruffles are just enough flirtyness, keep the top stitching thread in same shade as the fabric.

Another skirt where top stitching makes all the difference. The back vent on this McCall's skirt has unusual detailing - worthy of a second glance.


Now that high waisted skirts are in style, this Vogue with its button details is in the fall fashion forecast. But stay away from views 'A' and 'C' as the gathered sides might not be flattering in a denim fabric with the exception - if you have very narrow hips then try it in a light weight denim.

Stay with good quality denim, in a deep rich color - no faded pale blue or pastels. Use strong colors in top stitching thread either in traditional jeans top stitching deep gold, crisp white, or same shade to blend in. Pay attention to how the fabric drapes and the style of skirt you want to sew. Keep it simple don't over do it, pick one detail to stand out and you will end up with a skirt that will be worn again and again.

Burda 7656 Capris

The first two pairs of capris made using Burda 7656. Very good pattern well drafted and the instructions are great. The denim pair is my test done in a light weight 100% cotton denim and the second pair in a cotton spandex woven. No alterations at all on the denim but changes the pockets and waist on the second pair. The waist is not to low - I guess you could say they are just a little below the natural waist.

In this photo it's hard to tell but I did alter the pockets on the second pair. I used a pocket off one of my RTW jeans and drafted a smaller pocket. Next pair I will make in a dark wash denim and do some fancy top stitching on the pockets like on many high end jeans pockets. On the second pair (green capris) I also made the waist band longer as to fit my tummy area.

I used Debbie's tutorial on Fly Front Jeans, her tutorial is my favorite!! She has all the info and step by step pictures - THANKS Debbie!!

Easily Distracted

I am so easily distracted from one project to another, and usually a new one at that. I have the Burda sundress traced out but got totally distracted by the Burda 7656 capri pattern. Burda's description:
These chic trousers/pants have a shaped waistband and squared pockets. Version A comes in 7/8-length with a broad, buttoned hem. Version B is plain, reaching just below the knee like classic capris. Both versions will be well teamed with sandals or ballerina shoes this summer. Recommended fabric: Gabardine, poplin, flannel, also stretch fabrics.

I like view 'B', I have traced a size 46 and sewn up a test in muslin. It fit a little snug in the waist and the waist is low cut - for me a short waisted and short in the rise gal with a bit of a bum this fits me well, the front pockets are placed great with no gaping, but the back pockets are large and placed to low for my bum - an easy fix, and the length is a little short - also very easy fix. So next is a wearable muslin made with a lightweight denim in my stash.